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Listings here will take you to my website to order – where you may pay via paypal or bank deposit.
I designed my labels to give the absorbency and waterproofing information in the star. “L” stands for “Light”, “R” for “Regular” and “H” for “Heavy”. The darker purple stars indicate the pad has PUL in it, the lighter purple labels are used on pads with no PUL. If there is an empty star (no letter inside it), it means the pad has adjustable absorbency (such as boostable or pocket pads)
The absorbencies of “Light”, “Medium/Moderate” and “Heavy” in reference to the cloth pads are a guide only. It is recommended to change your pad before it becomes “full” for hygiene and comfort reasons (around every 2-4 hours), regardless of the absorbency of the pad. I also list the exact composition of the pads in the product description so that you can make your own determination of the absorbency level for your needs.
Most of the pads you’ll find here are made in the “regular” absorbency (also known as Moderate or medium) – These pads should be suitable for use throughout most of your period, even on heavy days (though you will want to change more frequently on heavy days). You would most likely want to change the pad for comfort before the pad was too “full”, and additional unneeded layers can make the pads slower to dry.
The longer the pad, the more surface area of absorbency, so a Priestess or Goddess pad of “Regular” absorbency will hold much more flow than a Nymph or Maiden “Regular” absorbency pad. Pads without waterproofing will allow the blood to soak through eventually, so it is recommended to check regularly to make sure the pad has not soaked through. Pads made with PUL waterproofing will allow the flow to spread out through the core of the pad more, as well as helping prevent leaks. If you have heavy flow or flow that soaks through the one spot quickly rather than spreading out over the pad, you might want to wear pads with waterproofing or use a waterproofed booster under the pad.
Please note the brand/absorbency labels are sewn onto the pad after the pads have been sewn up, so there are small stitching lines visible on the top of the pad. If the pad has PUL this does mean the stitching goes through the PUL layer, however I position the tags on the back of the wing so that there is minimal chance of leaking through any needleholes in the PUL layer.
Older pads will have my old iron-on labels instead of the newer sew-on ones.
Pad cores are made from a “bamboo fleece” that is a bamboo/hemp blend (Standard “bamboo fleece” is a bamboo/cotton blend). I find this bamboo/hemp fabric provides a good blend between the softness and absorbency of bamboo with the eco-friendly benefits and durability of hemp. Obsidian Star pad cores are made with the “hidden core” technique where there is a full layer of flannelette through the entire pad and the bamboo fleece core is sewn onto this layer in graduating layers. This means that in a “regular” absorbency pad there is a full layer of flannelette, a layer of bamboo fleece that covers most of the inner surface of the pad (not into the wing) and a second layer of bamboo fleece in the very centre of the pad. “Heavy” pads have a total of 3 layers bamboo fleece, “Light” pads have 1 layer bamboo fleece (unless otherwise specified)
I don’t use “zorb” in pads, because I feel that is it important to use natural fabrics where possible (primarily because of the eco-impact) and zorb is made with polyester nylon.
I use PUL instead of fleece because PUL is regarded in the industry as being completely leakproof in a pad and is a very thin fabric. Whereas fleece is only leak-resistant (unless treated with a DWR chemical coating) and adds extra thickness. I like to make pads to be as thin as they can be, so they are more comfortable and less obvious to wear (which is why I often leave the PUL exposed, as it makes the pad thinner).
While some people feel that fleece is more breathable and prefer it, a PUL pad is overall much thinner and some people find that cooler. A lot of people use fleece backing because it is seen to be a more “breathable” option to PUL, but I’m not sure that something as dense and treated as Windpro is, makes much difference in the breathability aspect (especially if you have a cotton or other suitably breathable fabric touching your skin anyway). Ultimately I feel that if you need/want some leak-resistance, you’re better off with PUL which will give more protection for a thinner pad.
The use of synthetic fleece fabrics is causing micro-plastic pollution in our oceans. This is where tiny particles of the fleece fabric is shed through the washing process and ends up in the ocean where small fish consume it and it works its way up the food chain (Link, Link, Link). So I feel that a PUL fabric provides a more effective waterproofing fabric in a pad, which is better for the environment.
To reduce the environmental impact by reducing the amount I drive to the post office – I post orders twice a week. Usually on Mon/Tues and on Thurs/Fri. If you need your order sent in a hurry please contact me to check if this is possible before ordering.
Shipping is available Australia-wide. If the cost of postage & packing is less than the amount you have paid for shipping, I will refund any excess.
Please note that I do not ship Internationally.
Often I will make more than one pad from the same fabric and photograph pads to show the back and front of the pad. Unless otherwise specified all pads are sold individually, so if a product photo shows 2 pads, you will receive only one. When pads are made from printed fabrics, the pad you receive may have a slightly different print placement to the pad shown, but will be made from the same fabric. If a fabric print is such that each pad cut from it will look different, then each pad will be photographed separately.
Cloth Pads work more effectively when you are wearing snug fitting underpants (Preferably cotton or other fabric that allows some grip rather than more “slippery” fabrics like nylon). There can be no exchanges or refunds on Cloth Pads or associated products due to health reasons.
Unfortunately we have to move house :( So this means we need to pack up our considerable amount of stuff :D to get the house ready for open homes and moving – which means we need to fill my sewing/stock room with boxes to store them until we move.
At this stage I have no idea how long this process will take, but I have to close until after we’ve moved. Keep an eye on my facebook page and I’ll post a reopening when I’m settled in.
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